Classification and characteristics of yarn for clothing

Yarn is composed of one or more continuous filaments or discontinuous short fibers. Yarn is actually a general term for yarn and thread. The raw material of yarn is fiber. Yarn is both the raw material and product of clothing fabrics, such as sewing thread, knitting thread, embroidery thread, etc.

The structure and properties of yarn directly affect the properties of the fabric and the wearing performance of the garment, such as the surface gloss, smoothness, roughness or pile properties of the fabric, the fabric’s Lightness, fabric texture (fullness, softness, crispness, elasticity, etc.), clothing wear resistance, pilling, etc.

Due to the different fibers and processing methods that make up the yarn, there are many types of yarns with different shapes. There are also many classification methods.

(1) According to the raw materials of yarn

1. Purely spun yarn

It is composed of a kind of fiber raw material, such as: pure cotton yarn, pure wool, pure silk, pure linen, pure fiber yarn.

2. Blended yarn

Mixed from two or more fibers The yarn spun. Such as polyester cotton, polyester linen, wool viscose yarn.

(2) According to the fiber state in the yarn

1. Short fiber yarn :

Yarn made by twisting short fibers. Usually 15 to 100 short fibers are twisted to form a single yarn, and 2 or more single yarns are combined and twisted to form a thread.

Short yarn generally has a loose structure and a plump feel. Most sewing threads, knitting yarns and woolen yarns are short fibers.

2. Filament yarn

Long yarn spun directly from polymer solution According to the structure, yarn processed by silk processing is divided into three types: monofilament, multifilament, and composite twisted yarn. Monofilament is composed of one long filament and is used to weave socks, pantyhose, headscarves, swimwear, etc.; multifilament is composed of several monofilaments. There are many silk fabrics made of multifilament, such as plain satin, etc., which are used for suits. Linings, underwear, etc.; composite twisted yarn is made of multifilament yarns that are twisted, and different twists are used according to the purpose to weave crepe fabrics.

Filament yarn has good strength and uniformity and can be made into very fine yarn. It has poor hygroscopicity and is prone to static electricity. It feels smooth, flat and cool. .

3. Reeling (Sao): raw silk reeled from silkworm cocoons.

4. Split film yarn: Polypropylene film sheet is split into the required width by cutting or scribing techniques, and then stretched to make split film yarn. Used as base fabric for carpets, fleece fabrics, and woven packaging bags.

(3) According to the dyeing, finishing and post-processing of the yarn

1. Mercerized yarn: Cotton yarn is treated with sodium hydroxide and Adding tension changes the luster intensity of the yarn.

2. Singing yarn: Use burning gas or electric heat to burn off the hair on the surface of the yarn to make the yarn smoother.

3. Natural color yarn: Original color yarn, which maintains the original color of the fiber without bleaching.

4. Dyeing yarn: The original color yarn is boiled and dyed to make colored yarn.

5. Bleached yarn: yarn made by boiling and bleaching original color yarn.

(4) According to spinning technology

1. Combed cotton yarn and carded cotton yarn Cotton yarn

Combed cotton yarn refers to cotton yarn in which cotton fibers are combed on the basis of ordinary carding in the spinning system.

Due to the removal of short fibers and impurities and repeated combing, the fibers in the yarn are parallel and straight, the slivers are even and smooth, and the appearance and performance are better than ordinary yarns. Carded cotton yarn is used to spin high-grade poplin, undershirts, etc.

2. Combed wool yarn and carded wool yarn

The fiber used in combed wool yarn is It is made of finer, longer and uniform high-quality wool as raw material, and is made according to the combed wool spinning process. The fibers in the yarn are parallel and straight, and the sliver is even and smooth. It is used for gabardine, Validin, Palis, etc. Worsted wool fabric.

Carded wool yarn is processed into wool yarn using a woolen wool spinning system with shorter processing steps. The fiber length is uneven, the fiber is not straight enough, the structure is scattered, and the surface is rough. It has a lot of velvet and is used for coats, flannel and carpets.