Basic concepts of fabric
Basic concepts of fabric
1. Warp direction, warp yarn, warp yarn density – the length direction of the fabric; the yarns in this direction are called warp yarns; the number of yarns arranged within 1 inch is the warp density (warp yarn density);
2. Weft direction, weft yarn, weft yarn density – the width direction of the fabric; the yarns in this direction are called weft yarns, and the number of yarns arranged within 1 inch is the weft density (weft yarn density);
3. Density – used to indicate the number of yarns per unit length of woven fabrics, generally the number of yarns within 1 inch or 10 centimeters. my country’s national standards stipulate that the number of yarns within 10 centimeters is used to express density, but Textile companies are still accustomed to using the number of yarns within 1 inch to express density. For example, the commonly seen “45X45/108X58” means that the warp and weft yarns are 45 respectively, and the warp and weft density are 108 and 58.
4. Width – the effective width of the fabric, generally expressed in inches or centimeters. Common ones are 36 inches, 44 inches, 56-60 inches, etc., which are called narrow width, medium width and wide width respectively. Above 60 Inch-inch fabrics are extra wide and are often called wide fabrics. The width of extra wide fabrics in my country today can reach 360 cm. The width is generally marked after the density. For example, if the fabric mentioned in 3 is added with the width, it will be expressed as: “45︸45/108︸58/60”, which means the width is 60 inches.
5. Gram weight – The gram weight of fabric is generally the number of grams of fabric weight per square meter. The weight of denim fabric is generally expressed in “ounces (OZ)”, which is the number of ounces per square yard of fabric weight
Fabric radial expression:
1. If the fabric has selvage, the direction of the yarn parallel to the selvedge is the warp direction, and the other direction is the weft direction.
2 The sizing is in the direction of the warp yarn, and the sizing is in the direction of the weft yarn. (Sizing refers to the finishing process in which fabrics are dipped in slurry and dried to obtain a thick and stiff feel. Cotton fabrics are impregnated with cellulose sodium zincate slurry and then treated with dilute acid to solidify the cellulose on the fabric. More washable and stiff imitation linen finishing effect.)
3 Generally, the fabric with higher density is in the warp direction, and the fabric with lower density is in the weft direction.
4. For fabrics with obvious reed marks, the direction of the reed marks is the warp direction.
5 pairs of half-thread fabrics, usually the strand direction is the warp direction and the single yarn direction is the weft direction.
6. If the yarns of single yarn fabrics have different twists, the Z twist direction is the warp direction and the S twist direction is the weft direction.
7. If the warp and weft yarn characteristics, twist direction, and twist degree of the fabric are not very different, the yarn will be uniform and shiny in the warp direction.
8. If the yarns of the fabric have different twists, the ones with higher twist are mostly in the warp direction, and the ones with smaller twist are in the weft direction.
9. Towel fabrics have terry yarns in the warp direction, and terry-free yarns in the weft direction.
10 strip fabric, the strip direction is usually in the warp direction.
11 If the fabric has a system of yarns with multiple different properties, this direction is the warp direction.
12 Leno fabrics, the direction of the twisted yarn is the warp direction, and the direction of the untwisted yarn is the weft direction.
13 In the interwoven fabrics of different raw materials, generally cotton or linen interwoven fabrics, cotton is the warp yarn; in the wool and silk interwoven fabrics, the silk is the warp yarn; in the wool and silk cotton interwoven fabrics, silk and cotton are the warp yarns; natural silk and spun silk In interwoven fabrics, natural threads are warp yarns; in interwoven fabrics of natural silk and artificial silk, natural silks are warp yarns. Since fabrics have a wide range of uses and varieties, the requirements for fabric raw materials and organizational structures are also diverse. Therefore, when making judgments, it must be based on the specific conditions of the fabric
Polyester Taffeta: The English name is Polyester Taffeta, also known as taffeta. Made of polyester silk or imitation silk. Polyester taffeta is a thin, all-polyester fabric woven from polyester filament, which has a bright appearance and smooth feel. This kind of cloth is called polyester taffeta, which can be used as fabric and lining. Nowadays, it is usually used as lining.
Taffeta means taffeta, which was originally a classification of silk (silk is divided into 4 major categories and 24 subcategories). Nowadays, those made of polyester are called polyester taffeta or polyester yarn, and those made of nylon are called nylon yarn
Features: Polyester taffeta is a kind of thin polyester fabric with specifications of 190T, 210T, 230T, etc. It is generally a finished fabric in the market. The warp and weft raw materials of 190T polyester taffeta are polyester FDY63D/24F, and the finished width is 150CM. The current market price of gray fabric is slightly lower.
Polyester taffeta has been dyed, printed, embossed, coated and other post-processing, making it lightweight, durable and easy to wash, cheap and high-quality, and has been used as lining accessories for various types of clothing and bags.
Usage: Polyester taffeta is suitable for various high-end clothing linings such as jackets, umbrellas, car covers, sportswear, marine umbrellas, handbags, luggage, sleeping bags, tents, artificial flowers, shower curtains, tablecloths, chair covers, etc. Polyester taffeta is another traditional fabric of chemical fiber fabrics. It was once popular, but its sales volume decreased with the rise of a number of new chemical fiber fabrics. In recent years, polyester taffeta fabrics have entered the market with a new and colorful look after using matt yarn. Using matt polyester fabrics, the color of the fabric is softer, beautiful and charming, and it is suitable for making casual wear, sportswear, children’s clothing, etc. There are more than dozens of colors, and they are ready to wear, which are not only fashionable and beautiful, but also add alluring charm. Matt polyester taffeta is easy for ordinary people to accept because of its beautiful appearance and low price.
1680D: 1680D is the abbreviation of 1680D double-ply Oxford cloth. It is a plain textile fabric with double warp and double weft. The original raw material is nylon material.
Usually two 420D nylon yarns are combined into one twisted 840D yarn after winding and twisting, because the weaving method is double warp and double weft.Two 840D wires are 1680D double strands.
1680D double-ply Oxford cloth has extremely strong tensile strength and wear resistance, and has a noble luster. Most of them are high-end luggage and handbag fabrics.
Post-finishing is mostly calendered PVC, polyurethane, PU coating, EVA composite, and also includes transfer printing, hot rolling, screen printing, etc.
Most of the 1680D double-ply Oxford cloth produced by domestic manufacturers (concentrated in Shengze, Jiangsu) is made of polyester large glossy filament. However, the style, texture and quality are very close to nylon 1680D double-ply Oxford cloth. Luggage manufacturers call it imitation nylon 1680D, imitation nylon, etc.
Imitation nylon 1680D also has multiple specifications and style changes. The difference in weaving is mostly reflected in the changes in density and weight, while dyeing can be divided into two types: liquid cylinder dyeing and flat cylinder dyeing. Fabrics with high requirements are mainly based on liquid flow cylinders, and this kind of dyeing is best for high-density products. This solution has high color fastness (both dry and wet grinding are above level 4), small color difference, strong graininess, and gloss. good. The dyeing fastness of flat cylinder is poor and the color difference is large, but the cost is low, so it is suitable for customers with low requirements.
The minimum price of Oxford cloth is 150D*150D. The raw materials are nylon and polyester. The organization is plain and twill. Yarns are available in single and double strands. he6SjHO9c
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