Briefly describe the selection of raw materials and dyeing process of imitation suede fabrics
Briefly describe the selection of raw materials and dyeing process of imitation suede fabrics
1. Foreword
With the continuous improvement of living standards, people have higher and higher requirements for clothing fabrics. Textile fabrics with bright colors, soft feel, good drape and resilience are favored by consumers. Judging from the current trend of the clothing market, textile fabrics with special styles are the first choice of clothing manufacturers. Generally, the development of such products is mainly accomplished through new materials and new processes. Suede is deeply loved by people because of its soft luster, soft texture, delicate and comfortable feel. But because the quantity of natural suede is limited. Suede is more luxurious. With the development of leather tanning technology, people can also suede processing of sheepskin, cowhide and pigskin. Traditionally, people call this suede-processed natural leather also called suede. With the development of productivity and the improvement of scientific and technological level, people have invented artificial processing methods to produce suede. Usually, we call suede made by artificial processing as artificial suede or imitation suede.
2. Selection of raw materials for imitation suede fabric
The raw material of imitation suede fabric is generally polyester microfiber. Polyester microfiber is a new product with high quality, high performance, high technical content and high added value. Its monofilament linear density is much lower than that of conventional polyester fiber, which gives it excellent wearing properties that are different from conventional polyester fiber, such as moisture absorption, breathability, soft hand feel, fullness, elasticity, fluffiness and elegant feeling, etc. Because the linear density of polyester microfiber is much lower than that of conventional fibers, the dyeing characteristics of polyester microfibers are different from those of conventional fibers. This is mainly reflected in the dyeing rate, dyeing amount, dye lifting, color depth, level dyeing, and dye migration. The color brightness and dye fastness are obviously different from conventional fibers. The increase in surface area caused by low linear density first causes an increase in the degree of adsorption and desorption of dyes during dyeing. The increase in adsorption degree leads to an increase in the dyeing rate and a decrease in wet fastness and light fastness. Secondly, it causes the deterioration of dyed fabrics. The color intensity is reduced. Improving the dyeing performance of polyester microfibers and fabrics has become a topic of great interest to enterprises. Imitation suede fabric is a textile fabric with a special style that is made using special textile raw materials and combined with special dyeing and finishing processes. It is one of the more popular high-end fabrics in the domestic market.
The feel and appearance of imitation suede are quite similar to natural suede, and its surface texture structure is also similar to natural suede. After special finishing, it is fine, smooth, soft and plump, more durable than natural suede, and easier to maintain. . It is widely used in modern fashion, shoe materials, toys and furniture decoration, and is a novel decorative material. Suede is made of new raw material microfiber as the main raw material. After a weight reduction (sanding) process, it not only has a soft feel, good drape, and strong stability (will not shrink or stretch due to cleaning), but also has good breathability. Anti-insect, anti-corrosion.
3. The production method and suitable raw materials of imitation suede
1. How to make imitation suede
The production methods of imitation suede can be roughly divided into three types: woven method, knitting method, and non-woven method. Some companies in the country adopt this method.
2. Raw materials suitable for the production of imitation suede weaving method
When developing synthetic fiber imitation suede products, the raw material selected is superfine fiber filaments, which are woven into fabrics. After special dyeing and finishing processes, fine and uniform fluff is formed on the surface of the finished fabrics. Microfiber has the advantages of being fluffy, elegant and soft to the touch. The drape and softness of microfiber fabric are excellent and comfortable to the touch. There are many types of microfibers. The ones suitable for imitation suede include polyester/polyester island type and polyester/jinju petal type. The island type fiber is opened by dissolving method, and the orange flap type fiber is opened by peeling method. It is more reliable to use the dissolution method to dissolve polyester/polyester sea-island fibers and make them become ultra-fine denier fibers after fiber opening. Therefore, polyester 16.7tex/36fx371 (island silk) + 7.6tex conventional polyester coated double twist is used in the weft direction, and l1.1tex polyester is used in the warp direction as the raw material for developing imitation suede products. Now, the raw materials used by some domestic downstream companies are polyester island yarn purchased from South Korea’s Huvis Company. There are 37 islands in the single fiber. After the sea part is dissolved, the single fiber is 0.05De. It has a powdery soft feel and a suede look. In order to ensure the stability of the quality of finished fabrics, domestic manufacturers are required to ensure that the raw materials are first-class and of the same batch number. The fiber-dissolving formula uses a special high-temperature alkaline water (water at 150°C, pH=13-14) process formula that matches the raw materials.
4. Introduction to the dyeing process of imitation suede fabric produced from polyester microfiber
Polyester ultrafine suede is much more difficult to dye than regular polyester fabric. Due to the large surface area of microfiber itself, it has remarkable characteristics in terms of dyeing speed, level dyeing, repeatability and color fastness. Ultrafine fiber has fine fiber and large surface area. It absorbs dye quickly and diffuses slowly, so the levelness is poor. The light reflection coefficient of ultrafine fiber is large. To dye the same depth of color, the amount of dye used is 3 times higher than that of ordinary fiber. into or above; the light fastness, sublimation fastness, abrasion fastness, etc. of microfiber fabrics are all higher than those of conventional fabrics.Synthetic fibers have declined. Usually its sublimation fastness will drop by 1-2 levels.
1. Dyeing
Because polyester ultra-fine suede fabrics are light and thin, and taking into account the hand feel of the product, high-temperature and high-pressure overflow jet dyeing machines are usually used for dyeing production. In addition, the dyeing of island-type polyester microfiber imitation suede fabrics is much more difficult than the dyeing of ordinary synthetic fiber fabrics. The specific surface area of microfibers is very large, which makes the dyeing speed, level dyeing, reproducibility and color poor. It has its distinctive characteristics in terms of fastness and other aspects. That is to say, the specific surface area of ultrafine fiber is large, it absorbs dye quickly, the diffusion speed is slow, and the leveling property is poor; the reflection coefficient of ultrafine fiber is large, and the amount of dye used to dye the same depth of color must be 2.5-3 higher than that of ordinary polyester fiber. Above; the color fastness of microfiber to light, sublimation, friction, etc. is worse than that of conventional polyester, and its sublimation fastness is about 1-2 levels lower. Restorative cleaning helps improve relative color fastness.
2. Restoration cleaning
In order to improve the color fastness indicators of polyester ultra-fine suede fabrics, the fabrics must be restored and cleaned after the dyeing process. In order to improve the related fastness of fabrics, reduction cleaning must be sufficient and process requirements must be standardized and unified, otherwise the quality of the final product will be affected.
3. Post-finishing processing
The cleaned fabric is restored, dehydrated and padded with silicone softener, then dried and shaped at 140°C. In order to ensure the suede style of the product, the fabric needs to be lightly sanded after being shaped, and then inspected again. Packaging and storage. Therefore, in order to effectively control color difference, process parameters such as chemical dosage, temperature, liquor ratio, and fabric speed must be strictly controlled during the fabric desizing, scouring, fiber opening, and dyeing processes. The setting temperature must also be controlled below 160°C.
5. Conclusion
Polyester microfiber is becoming more and more widely used, but problems in its dyeing process will affect its development. Improving the dyeing properties of polyester microfibers is directly related to the development of the use of ultrafine denier polyester fibers. Since polyester microfibers and fabrics can actually penetrate into almost every field of textile application, they have broad development prospects. The dyeing and finishing of ultra-fine denier polyester fabrics has always been a research hotspot in domestic and foreign industries, and its technical content is very rich. Improving the dyeing properties of polyester microfibers and fabrics is of great significance for enterprises to produce more high-end textile products with high quality and excellent performance. According to relevant sources: Island-type polyester microfiber imitation suede fabric, as a new textile that has emerged in recent years, is deeply loved by consumers at home and abroad for its smooth, waxy and plump feel, breathability, elegance and good drape. , also has broad market development prospects. NRYpMTDhB
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