Currently popular garment washing technology
Currently popular garment washing techniques
Clothing dyeing and finishing in my country began in the late 1970s, with stone grinding, rinsing and snow washing of denim clothes. In the 1980s, sand washing of silk clothing emerged, water washing (shrinking), soft washing, sand washing of cotton and T/C clothing, as well as a small amount of clothing dyeing, printing and tie-dying. In the 1990s, enzyme treatment technology emerged and was widely used in denim washing, super soft washing of pure cotton clothing, and polishing of knitwear. In recent years, permanent press resin finishing technology has emerged, which is used for clothing impregnation treatment. The dimensional and morphological stability is greatly improved compared with previous fabric treatment methods. The washing industry has developed with the development of the garment industry. Many mid- to high-end garments are inseparable from the post-dyeing and finishing processing of garments. It has become a modern new technology to improve the taste and added value of garments.
After being processed through multiple processes of spinning, dyeing and finishing, and garment making, textiles generally undergo washing treatment to achieve decontamination, anti-shrinkage, softening, hair removal or some special visual effects, so as to make the comprehensive quality of garments Performance is closer to normal and colors are more natural.
For China’s current water washing industry, it can be roughly divided into the following types of washing water according to the purpose of washing water:
Shrink after washing
When the shrinkage rate of the fabric exceeds the standard, wash a cloth sample before making the garment, measure the shrinkage rate in the warp and weft directions, convert it into the garment size, and then cut the material according to the proportion. After making the sample, wash and test it to ensure that the shrinkage rate of the garment meets the standard. This type of clothing must be washed after it is made into garments. And the size after shrinkage must be consistent with the test sample. This requires a unified process for [washing and shrinkage].
Washing and shrinking process: Place the clothing in a pool of warm water at 40°C, soak it for half an hour (press it with a stick from time to time to make it soaked), take it out, dehydrate and dry it.
Washing shrinkage requirements: After washing, the shrinkage rate of the clothing is reduced to 3% (note: it varies according to customer requirements and standards).
Washes soft
Most clothing requires softness. At the customer’s request, softener is added to adjust the feel of the clothes during washing and shrinkage.
Place the garments in a pool of warm water at 40°C with 2 g/L of softener added, wash for a certain period of time, dehydrate and dry.
Washing softness requirements: After washing, the shrinkage rate of the clothing will decrease and the hand feel will be slightly soft. Washing and softening is generally arranged in the last step of washing or at the same time as other washing steps.
Washing and cleaning
Products exported to certain countries are required to be formaldehyde-free or low-formaldehyde-free. At present, resin processing technology is widely used in the dyeing and finishing industry for anti-wrinkle and anti-shrinkage finishing. Some fabrics containing formaldehyde emit formaldehyde smell into the space, causing the originally formaldehyde-free clothes to absorb a small amount of formaldehyde. If you are not careful, it can easily lead to breach of contract.
Washing and cleaning process: soaping at 40-50°C (1 g/L washing powder, 2 g/L soda ash), washing, dehydration, and drying.
Cleaning requirements: no odor on the cloth and no formaldehyde.
Hair removal
Cotton yarn evolves into clothes after multiple production processes of spinning, dyeing, finishing and garment making. During various processing processes, the cloth surface is subjected to various frictions, and the hairiness on the cloth surface is uneven, affecting the appearance and feel. In order to improve its appearance or improve its pilling resistance (piling resistance), a common processing method is enzyme washing to achieve the purpose of hair removal.
Dehairing process: enzyme washing (acidic conditions, 1-2g/L), water washing, dehydration and drying.
Requirements for dehairing: the hairiness on the cloth surface should be smooth. Strong and the color is up to standard.
No ironing (anti-wrinkle)
Cotton fabric garments, if they only undergo general washing treatment, will easily wrinkle during wearing, affecting their appearance. The more popular solution at present is to add resin during wet processing for no-iron finishing. No-iron finishing can be carried out separately during the shaping process of fabrics or the washing process of garments. Depending on the type of resin used, the processing process also differs.
No-iron process: resin is about 60g/L, washed with catalyst (note: it varies according to requirements), dehydrated (maintain a certain moisture content), ironed and dried.
Non-iron requirements: smooth, not easy to wrinkle, strong, and the color is up to standard.
Denim wash
The principle of applying cellulase to the stone-milled finishing of denim is to use cellulase to hydrolyze part of the cellulose, so that the indigo bromide staying in the amorphous area of the cellulose will also fall off, thus making the surface of the denim The effect is the same as stone grinding. The difference between the two is that stone milling relies entirely on mechanical abrasion of fibers, while enzymatic method mainly relies on biological catalysis to hydrolyze fibers.
Denim washing process: enzyme washing (or adding stone), washing and drying.
Requirements for denim washing: reduce lint on the cloth surface, have a stone-washed effect (fading, blooming), and prevent back-staining.
Comprehensive washing
Combine the above washing methods to perform multiple washings (depending on the actual effect, you can choose to perform them at the same time).
According to the washing process and the main materials used, water washing can be divided into the following types:
General cleansing:
As the name suggests, general washing is ordinary washing, which mechanizes washing in daily life. General washing is a simple washing method, that is, keep the water temperature between 60-70°C, add a certain amount of detergent, wash for about 15 minutes, then add softener to the clean water. Clothes after general washing look natural, clean, and feel soft and comfortable. Usually based on the length of washing time and the amount of chemicals used, general washing can be divided into light general washing.�General washing, heavy general washing. Usually light general washing lasts about 5 minutes, general washing lasts about 15 minutes, and heavy general washing takes about 30 minutes (this time is not accurate). There is no obvious boundary between these three washing methods.
Chemical washing:
By adding chemicals such as sodium hydroxide and sodium silicate during the washing process, the washed clothes can achieve certain special effects. After washing with sodium hydroxide and sodium silicate, acetic acid is used to neutralize the alkali. The effect after chemical washing has a noticeable fading (distressing) effect and a soft and plump effect.
Stonewash:
According to the user’s requirements, various stones such as yellow stone, white stone, and artificial stone can be used for washing. Through stone washing, clothes can achieve the special effect of being as old and clean as new. Especially since the emergence of denim clothing, stone washing has occupied an important position. Stone grinding can use a pumice stone of a certain size to grind the pumice stone with the clothes. The water level in the tank is set to a low level where the clothes are completely soaked, so that the pumice stone can better contact and rub with the clothes. However, in recent years, due to the development of biological enzyme technology, stone washing has gradually been replaced by enzyme washing.
Destruction Wash:
Generally, damage washing is mostly used for clothes with thicker fabrics such as twill. Damage washing is when the garment is polished with pumice (and a certain amount of enzyme is added) to cause a certain degree of damage in certain parts, and then is softened. After washing, the clothes will have a very “broken” effect, and the damaged clothes will have a soft, round and smooth feeling.
Rinse:
Generally, after washing with clean water, heat it to 60 degrees, add the corresponding bleach according to the required color depth, and after about 10 minutes, match the color of the clothes with the sample. After the clothes are plated, the bleach in the water should be neutralized with baking soda or baking soda to stop bleaching. Depending on the bleach used, rinsing can be divided into oxygen bleaching and chlorine bleaching. Bleached clothes have a white, bright appearance and soft feel.
Sand washing:
Select the appropriate bulking agent, sand detergent and softener as well as appropriate process conditions for washing based on the clothing’s structural structure, warp and weft density, yarn count and twist. The principle is that the fabric is puffed and loosened in a relaxed state, and then a special softener is added with the help of mechanical friction. It makes the fabric soft, elegant, reduces shrinkage, improves wrinkle resistance, and the surface is covered with a layer of soft, snow-white fluff.
Enzyme wash:
Enzyme washing, also known as enzyme washing, is an advanced and environmentally friendly washing method. Clothes washed with enzymes are soft, comfortable and feel good. According to the type of enzyme tried and the type of clothes, enzyme washing can be divided into delinting (mostly used for twill fabrics) and stone-like effect washing (mostly used for denim). Depending on the amount of enzyme, washing time and style, enzyme washing can be divided into heavy enzyme or light enzyme. At present, enzyme preparations produced by Novozymes are widely used in the water washing industry.
Garment dyeing:
Adding a certain amount of dye during the washing process of garments for garment dyeing (or adding color) is a more popular dyeing method in recent years. Compared with traditional dyeing processes, garment dyeing has the advantages of small batch size, short delivery time, unique style, and is suitable for various natural fibers. There are conventional dyeing, tie dyeing, hanging dyeing, ball dyeing, overdying and other methods. Dyes can be direct, acidic, reactive, or coating. The newer clothing dyeing process of cotton and its blended fabrics includes cationic denatured post-dye coating, followed by enzyme washing, which has a denim-like effect (color and wash), and the specifications of the gray fabric can be diverse, and warp dyeing can also be eliminated, and the cost will increase. And reduced a lot.
The impact of washing water on the appearance and physical indicators of garments:
A variety of washing processes create various distinctive garment effects and increase the added value of the product. At the same time, the appearance and physical indicators of the garment’s washing process cannot be ignored. Generally speaking, the main impacts are as follows:
1. General cleansing
Appearance: Little change in color, slightly old.
Physical indicators: Changes in slippage (directly related to the amount of softener added) and improved dimensional stability.
2. Chemical washing
Appearance: The color changes greatly; there are more irregular hairs (long hairs) on the cloth surface; there is a special stone grinding effect; the cloth surface is old.
Physical indicators: Slip changes; tensile and tear strength decrease to a certain extent; knitted fabric’s BURSTING decreases to a certain extent; shrinkage is stable.
3. Enzyme washing
Appearance: There is a certain change in color; the surface is smooth or the velvet is flat; it has an effect similar to stone grinding; the cloth surface is old.
Physical indicators: changes in slip; tensile and tear strength have declined to a certain extent; BURSTING of knitted fabrics has declined to a certain extent; shrinkage is stable; there is weight loss.
In addition, the hand feel style after washing is completely different from the hand feel style before washing. aXRlwnX
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