Semi-worsted yarn is a new type of yarn independently developed by my country’s wool spinning and cotton spinning industries in recent years. Although the term “semi-worsted” is still unfamiliar to consumers, it does not affect the enthusiasm of enterprises to invest in semi-worsted, nor does it affect the market’s favor for such products. In response to this new development trend, the China Wool Textile Industry Association and the China Textile Machinery Association recently jointly held the “National Innovative Wool Spinning Semi-worsted Technology Seminar” in Qingdao, Shandong Province. The participating experts discussed the characteristics of semi-worsted spinning technology and the development of products. Extensive exchanges and discussions were conducted on the prospects and several technical keys in semi-worsted yarn production. This article is compiled based on several hot issues discussed at the meeting, aiming to help enterprises understand the characteristics of semi-worsted spinning technology and spin semi-worsted yarn well.
1. What is semi-worsted spinning process
Semi-worsted means that the product is between worsted and woolen. This is determined by the equipment configuration and the particularity of the raw materials used to produce this product.
In terms of equipment configuration, cotton spinning technology and wool spinning technology are integrated to form a new spinning technology. Its front line is woolen spinning equipment plus cotton spinning carding, drawing, roving, spinning frame, etc., and the back line is worsted spinning winding, doubling, double twisting equipment, equipment and process changes, solving the original problem. Problems that wool spinning equipment cannot solve.
In terms of raw material application, semi-worsted spinning can achieve the blending of natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk, and hemp with other new types of man-made fibers, chemical fibers, and other short fibers. Whether the yarn produced is used in worsted (coarse) fabrics or knitted sweaters, the product style is unique. The fabric feel, drape, and body are very innovative, which is refreshing and different from the traditional worsted and woolen product styles. , so it is called “semi-worsted”.
Semi-worsted spinning is a new spinning process. It is different from coarse wool spinning in that it does not require double or multiple yarns. Instead of using a combined carding machine, a cotton spinning carding machine is used; unlike worsted wool spinning, it does not go through a fine (needle) carding machine. Compared with the worsted spinning process, the semi-worsted spinning process has a shorter production process, and the yarn produced is fluffier and softer than the worsted spinning process; compared with the coarse woolen spinning process, it has the characteristics of finer yarn count, uniform evenness, and smooth performance.
2. What are the reasons for the rapid development of semi-worsted spinning?
Semi-worsted spinning has developed rapidly in recent years, not only in many Woolen mills have added semi-worsted equipment, and many cotton mills have also developed and produced semi-worsted yarn through targeted technological transformation. According to information provided at the meeting: the current national production capacity of semi-worsted yarn has exceeded 500,000 spindles. Shandong is the earliest development base for semi-worsted yarn, and its current production capacity has exceeded 200,000 spindles. The production of semi-worsted yarn in our province was driven by the development of Jiaxing Puyuan and Honghe sweater markets. The current production capacity It is also close to 200,000 spindles; in addition, Jiangsu is also an important base for semi-worsted yarn production. According to the introduction at the meeting: Jiangsu Xinfang will invest 300 million yuan to build a 100,000-spindle project with an annual output of 8,000 tons. The project has been launched; Jiangsu Sunshine Group has invested 25 million yuan and a semi-worsted yarn project with an annual output of 800 tons has also been launched. . The reason why semi-worsted spinning can develop rapidly is determined by its process characteristics and market demand.
(1) Semi-worsted spinning can spin high-count yarn
With the development of my country’s animal husbandry and the improvement of people’s living standards , especially the output of special animal hair fibers such as cashmere and rabbit hair is increasing year by year. It is urgent to carry out deep processing of special animal hair fibers and produce light and high-end wool fabrics. The spinning count of traditional coarse woolen spinning process is limited (spindle spinning can only produce 20Nm, and the maximum count of ring spinning is 32Nm), which can no longer meet the requirements of yarn count for light and thin woolen fabrics, while the fine woolen spinning process is due to special Animal hair fibers are too short to be processed, but the semi-worsted spinning process can spin yarn counts in the range of 16-60 Ne (i.e. 27-102 Nm), which can meet the requirements of knitting and woven fabrics to produce high-end light fabrics.
(2) Semi-worsted spinning process has strong adaptability to raw materials
Among many spinning process routes, semi-worsted spinning process has strong adaptability to raw materials. The biggest feature of the worsted spinning process is its strong adaptability to processed raw materials. It can blend cotton, wool, silk, hemp and various chemical short fibers in any way. Textile fibers with a length of 25mm or more can be used as semi-worsted. Raw materials can be reasonably selected according to the style and count requirements of the product.
(3) Semi-worsted spinning technology is suitable for my country’s national conditions
Semi-worsted spinning technology consists of two types of spinning: wool spinning and cotton spinning. The organic combination of machinery and its process have the advantages of high output, short process, labor saving and low cost. The yarn spun by the semi-worsted process has excellent properties such as bright color, uniform fiber mixing, fluffy and soft yarn feel, and smooth surface. It is also suitable for production methods of small batches, multiple varieties, and multiple colors, and meets the market requirements for product variety and fast delivery. As the semi-worsted spinning process becomes more and more perfect and product quality and grade continue to improve, its advantages will become more and more obvious.
3. Application fields and market prospects of semi-worsted yarn
With the development of society, people are paying more attention to natural environmental protection. More and more people are paying more and more attention to it, and wearing healthy, comfortable and casual clothes has become fashionable. Since the semi-worsted spinning process is more suitable for multi-component blending, the blending of cotton, wool, silk, linen and other fibers can overcome the shortcomings of single raw material spinning and wear performance, which can not only meet environmental protection requirements, but also improve wearing comfort and wear. performance, with halfTo meet different needs, it is imperative to formulate a complete set of standards.
(2) It is necessary to solve the two technical problems of semi-worsted yarn, which is easy to shed and colored wool, from the perspective of technology and equipment
Since there is no combing in the semi-worsted spinning process, and the blended fibers have large length dispersion and high short fiber content, improper handling of the cotton spinning process can easily cause fiber damage; in the subsequent drafting process Among them, the loss of proper control over short fibers can easily cause neps and lint, which not only affects the appearance of the cloth but also causes lint loss. To solve these two technical problems, the short fiber content must be controlled starting from the matching of raw materials. In the spinning process, fiber damage must be reduced through flexible carding; and during the drafting process, fiber movement must be controlled to reduce free fibers. In the process of spinning and twisting, without affecting the skew of the cloth surface, appropriate measures such as increasing the twist can be used to improve shedding and pilling.
(3) Modern spinning technology should be fully adopted to improve the grade and grade of semi-worsted products
With the advancement of spinning technology, online control technology has been widely used. For example, in the semi-worsted spinning process, auto-leveling technology is used on the carding machine and final draw frame, and compact spinning or siro spinning is used on the spinning frame. New technologies such as these will effectively improve the evenness and yarn strength of “semi-worsted” yarns, reduce hairiness and improve the surface finish of the yarn. By then, the quality of “semi-worsted” yarns will occupy the market with a new look and expand. Use surface.
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