The determination of yarn linear density is one of the main contents of fabric design. The linear density of yarn plays a decisive role in the performance of fabric and should be selected according to the use and characteristics of the fabric.
For example, general plain cloth is mainly used for processing colored cloth or sold as natural cloth. It is required to be soft, comfortable, strong and durable, so medium and special cotton yarn of about 29tex, muslin, poplin, etc. are mostly used. The fabric is required to be thin, smooth and soft, and fine cotton yarn below 20tex is generally used.
Another example is women’s woven plain weave cloth, which requires a fine and clean appearance and a smooth cloth surface. Finer yarn (10 to 27 tex, that is, 100 to 58.5 tex) should be used. ); If a yarn with a high thread density is used, even if the yarn is even, the color is good, and the surface is smooth, the thick yarn and large interweaving points will not produce a flat and thin style, giving it a rough and heavy feel.
There are three situations for the configuration of the linear density (special number) of warp and weft yarns in woven fabrics: the special number of warp yarns is equal to the special number of weft yarns; the special number of warp yarns is less than the special number of weft yarns; the special number of warp yarns Greater than the number of weft yarns.
When the warp yarn characteristics are equal to the weft yarn characteristics, that is, the warp and weft yarns have the same thickness, which facilitates production management. Such as plain cloth, poplin, crepe, Oxford cloth, gabardine, Drikong cloth, serge, etc. among cotton fabrics; various varieties of linen fabrics. Among silk fabrics, yarns of the same thickness are used for warp and weft, including woven fabrics, cotton fabrics, silk fabrics, and gauze fabrics.
When the warp yarn characteristics are smaller than the weft yarn characteristics, that is, the warp is fine and the weft is thick, which can improve the production efficiency of the loom.
For example, flannel in cotton fabrics is a product made by processing plain or twill cotton fabrics with single or double-sided fleece. Generally, weakly twisted and thicker cotton yarn is used. It is a weft, which facilitates brushing processing.
The warp and weft yarn fineness ratio of double-sided plain velvet fabric can reach 1:2, and the warp and weft yarn fineness ratio of single-sided serge velvet fabric is 1:1.5~1:2.
Thick poplin, also known as grosgrain, is a kind of poplin fabric. It is a thick plain ribbed fabric with fine warp and thick weft. The warp yarn is 10tex×2～6tex×2 ( 60/2～100/2 British count) yarn, and the weft yarn uses 42tex×2～10tex×2 (14/2～60/2 British count) yarn.
Some Zhigong have prominent lines, the warp is thinner than the weft, and the warp density is greater than the weft density.
The kudzu in silk also has fine warp and thick weft, and the silk surface has obvious horizontal ridges.
When the number of warp yarns is greater than the number of weft yarns, that is, the warp is thicker and the weft is thinner, which can reflect the special effect on the appearance of the fabric.
In most cases, the first two configuration methods are used, and in special cases, the third method is used.
When the special numbers of warp and weft yarns are different, the difference should not be too large, because too large a difference in the special numbers of warp and weft yarns will change the geometric structure of the fabric and cause the warp and weft yarns to buckle. Changes occur, thereby changing the state of the yarn as the supporting surface of the fabric, affecting the wear resistance and other wearing properties of the fabric. </p
